Thursday, March 27, 2014

Are there affordable mid-range restaurants in Stockholm?

A few weeks ago, we were fortunate enough to have a chance to visit Stockholm, Sweden, for a long-weekend trip, and two friends from work also joined us as well. It was my first time to Sweden, and I knew that the Scandinavian countries were going to be expensive, especially when it came to dining out.

Our first night after arrival, we explored Ostermalm market, which is a beautiful old-European style market (like a grander version of Westside Market in Cleveland), with vendors selling all sorts of fres groceries, but particularly with a focus on seafood

Ostermalm Market in the evening

In the evening, some of the walkway areas are converted into table spaces, and a number of these vendors offer a full dinner service, or "after work", as they called it, seemingly like "Happy Hour" in the US. The evening crowd is quite interesting... small groups of well-dressed people, enjoying a wine and snack at the bar, or small groups huddled in quiet conversation around the tables.

Dining out in Scandinavian countries always appears as a very formal and elegant experience. Men in their jackets, women nicely dressed for an evening out, even if it's just eating inside a covered market. In fact, while having dinner at this market, we even saw a "night out" between a father and his young 5-8 year old daughter, who was dressed very nicely for what appeared to be a dinner out with dad.

While these dining experiences are enjoyable, it can get quite expensive as a tourist to be eating out so often. And in my previous experience in Denmark, as I noticed in Sweden, it's hard to find mid-range restaurant choices. Even for us, a meal inside the food market costed nearly SEK200 (US$30) per person, including drinks. And on lower end, there are kebab shops, and while tasty, they're probably not that good for you (ie, lots of salt in kebab meat), and still not that much cheaper at SEK100 (US$15). Were there any mid-market restaurants where we could find something that was better than a kebab, but cheaper than a full restaurant (or even market) experience?

Before our trip, one of Sen's colleagues, a native of Stockholm, had written down a place called Bakfickan, and I had also heard about it on the CHOW.COM forums, and on our last day, we decided to give it a try. I had some high hopes - Bakfickan, meaning "in the hip pocket", is a type of restaurant in Sweden that typically shares a chef or kitchen with a more well-known restaurant. In our case, Bakfickan was located in the bar behind the restaurant Operakallaren, with set menus starting at SEK995 (almost US$150 per person!). Instead of haute cuisine, Backfickan specialized in Swedish home cooking, like Swedish meatballs, something I could recognize from IKEA.

Finding this place wasn't easy - and it didn't help that we had to backtrack from our original location, because I had the wrong address in my head. The restaurant was near the Opera house, but the entrance wasn't as obvious as the Operakallaren. Maybe this was by design from an MBA graduate who wanted to make sure that Bakfickan didn't cannabalize the business from the higher-end restaurant next to it. After going around the side of the opera house, we finally found the door, and when we opened it, we saw this:


Dark wood paneling, accentued with a blue and white tile pattern along the walls, with a bar around the center, and high-top tables around the sides. The tables were designed for small, intimate groups, maybe 3-4 people at a maximum. The restaurant was quiet when we arrived, only 2 people sitting on a table overlooking the outside, with 2 staff members quietly working in the background. The day's two menu choices were written on the chalkboard behind the bar, but one area appeared erased, as Sen noticed, indicating the dish (a type of salmon) was sold out, as confirmed by the waiter. In addition to the day menu choices, there was a standard menu as well. Surprisingly, there was a section of the board that had a listing of vegetarian options as well! Unfortunately, if I'm paying expensive SEK, I should be buying meat instead of vegetables.


Knowing it was our only Swedish "home cooked' meal opportunity, I ordered Swedish meatballs, which came presented with a very smooth rendition of mashed potatoes, and Sen ordered a very tasty smoked sausage dish, also with a side of mashed potatoes and sauerkraut. Great value for the quality and presentation, as each dish was ~SEK150 each. Definitely healthier and better prepared than kebabs, and cheaper than going out to a full-service restaurant. After a long day of walking in the cold, these winter dishes were exactly what we needed for our last dinner in Stockholm before returning to the US


As we finished our meal around 9pm, a large group of male, English-speaking businessmen arrived, for what appeared to be a late after work meal. It was quite an international group, and including two younger people probably in their late 20's or 30's. I imagined that maybe these were some consultants (McKinsey? BCG?) getting dinner after work. Who doesn't enjoy a good meal after a long day?

Location: 
Bakfickan
Karl XII:S torg, adjacent to the Opera House
Stockholm, Sweden

Sunday, January 26, 2014

Barcelona Part 3 - Seafood Dining

When going to Barcelona, I never thought that it was a seafood city, despite sitting on the northeast corner of Spain along the Mediterranean ocean.. it's more of a sign of my poor geography in that region. Certainly Spanish tapas was known for it's use of seafood (like calimari), but it didn't really come to mind as strongly as my association of Spanish food with ham and pork

Nonetheless - my European colleagues had booked a seafood dinner for us, in an appropriately-themed nautical restaurant called Botafumeiro. Apparently, the botafumeiro refers to the swaying chalices with smoke that were used in Catholic churches in the olden days, and can be seen in the restaurant's logo on the outside.

The nautical theme in the restaurant could be seen everywhere, from the wood and brass finishings inside the restaurant, to the navy-like white uniforms of the waitstaff. If you looked carefully, you could find the captain's wheel or brass speed indicators used as a lamp base.

Given that this restaurant was "restaurant marisqueria" (seafood restaurant), we had to order their seafood! But first - an appetizer of jamon iberico

Can't start dinner without some ham first

The restaurant's signature plate was a shellfish plate, which was waaay larger than expected, but delicious. Surprisingly, the shellfish tended to be more grilled, similar to a style you'd find in Malaysia/Singapore, instead of the more French style of boiling or lightly cooking in butter. Our plate had nearly everything: crabs, lobster tail, calimaris, huge prawns (actually, more correctly, langoustines, which are like prawns with claws), scallops, mussels. Pretty much if it had a shell, it was on the plate!
 
Does it have a shell? If yes - it's on this plate.

Since we were there for a conference, this restaurant did pretty good business for corporate clients, as a pharma company had booked this amazing looking library room for their guests. As expected for a place like this, it'll be definitely pricey. I think my colleagues felt a bit embrassed about the size of the bill, especially since we were on our own and not with customers. 


Private "Library Room" dining - don't think any librarian would approve of eating near books

In the end, a nice introduction for Spanish grillled seafood, a break from the typical tapas menu, and a fun night with colleagues.

Restaurant Botafumeiro

Carrer Gran de Gràcia, 81
BARCELONA
http://www.botafumeiro.es/en/home

Thursday, December 12, 2013

Barcelona - Part 2 - Eating around town, beginning with tapas



Cervecería Catalana – was a hidden gem of a tapas recommendation from a friend who often travelled to Barcelona. We were already walking near the Passieg de Garcia area, near the Ramblas, and my colleagues hadn’t set any plans for dinner, so I suggested that we try this place, based on my friend's recommendation. 

If you’re not already familiar with tapas, they are Spanish “small plates”, almost like appetizers. There’s some debate on the origins of Spanish tapas, when literally translated means “covers” but one commonly held belief is that in the olden days, in order to prevent flies or other insects from getting into one’s drink, you could place an edible “cover” that would go over your drink, and these small appetizers would be placed over that cover. There are both warm and cold dishes, like patatas bravas, thinly shredded pan-friend potatoes, the incredibly tasty jamon Iberico – cured Spanish ham served with toastpoints, or cold dishes like calamari, tossed in olive oil. 



Jamon Iberico - best ham ever!

Set on a side street of one of the main tourist avenues, it’s a difficult to miss tapas restaurant. As we arrived for a typical late Spanish dinner around 8pm, there was already a long line of people waiting for tables in this tightly packed bar/restaurant, with the tables spilling onto the sidewalk for al fresco dining. There was this strong energy to the place – waiters moving quickly to serve their customers, a noisy bar where smaller groups were chatting and enjoying their drinks and tapas, all amid a very modern sleek décor.
 

There was about a 30 minute wait for a table for the four of us, so we took our drinks outside and were chatting, when we suddenly became the magnet for other Americans who were either ordering or considering eating at this place! Quite funny – as our group consisted of two Americans (including myself), and a Belgian and German colleague. Somehow, our group must have looked like some kind of eating experts, as one of the diners sitting outside near us started to ask us which dishes they should order!! (patatas bravas and the jamon Iberico were our recommendations). At nearly the same time, a couple from New York, who probably stumbled upon the place when hearing us talking about waiting for a table, and we struck up a great conversation with them, which made our waiting time go by very quickly!




Ordering here is quite easy – if you’re eating at the bar, the various plates are set on top of the bar, and you can just point at any of the dishes, or if you decide to eat at the restaurant, you get a proper menu. Note: if you want a table, make your way past the busy entrance and bar, until you see the restaurant manager who has the waiting list.

Cervecería Catalana
Carrer de Mallorca, 236, 
08008 Barcelona, Spain ‎ 
  

Tuesday, September 24, 2013

Barcelona - Part 1 - Architecture


I recently had the opportunity to re-visit Barcelona, a city that I've had little background, other than a few hours in passing about 9 years ago. Back then, my only memory of Barcelona was the Sagrada Familia, the modern cathedral that was still being built 80 years later, and some paella.

Now, 9 years later, what a difference! First, the Sagrada Familia, the final masterpiece of Spanish architect Gaudi, while still under construction, is now actual working functional cathedral. I still remember hearing the sounds of drilling and hammering on the cathedral floor when I visited in 2004, but that sound has been replaced by hushed voices with a background of choral music.
Chapel under construction in 2004
Chapel in Sept 2013





There are some interesting architectural details from Gaudi - they are sometimes a bit surreal and odd, but quite clever. From my visit in 2004, I remember the tops of the cathedral towers were crowned with brightly colored pieces of fruit - like an apple, cherry, pineapples. Those same fruits were already showing their age, with their colors now muted by dust and age. In this trip, I continued to discover some interesting details. A colleague pointed out that the columns weren't the usual columns, but were designed to appear like trees, including some "corrugation" around the columns to look like bark, as well as the columns branching above to look like tree limbs. Even the branching patterns sometime appear random. Gaudi was able to combine the appearance of nature's randomness while maintaining architectural support into these columns.
Treetops and (a)symmetrical beauty


Sometimes, there are whimsical elements in the architecture, including these buildings near the front entrance of the cathedral. They share the Gaudi influence of "waviness" (I'm sure there's a more technical term for this), but at first glance, it appears like something out of the Smurfs!
Smurf village? or Gaudi masterpiece?


The cathedral is expected to be completed in 13 years, 2026, for the 100th year anniversary of Gaudi's death. Tragically, he was struck by a tram during the construction of the Sagrada Familia.

Barcelona is a living monument to Gaudi's archtectural style, as his buildings are scattered throughout the city. And despite the age of the buildings, nearly a 100 years old, the style remains quite modern to this writer's eyes.

Part 2... Spanish food and restaurant recommendations for future reference...

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Spring in Amsterdam, return of terraces and bikes

Spring in Amsterdam is always one of my favorite times of the year - usually marked by Queen's Day on April 30th. With the beginning of spring, this means the days are finally getting longer, people can stay and linger on the terraces, and the weather is warm enough for people to bike throughout the city.


As any visitor has experienced, bikes rule the roads in Amsterdam, and much of the Netherlands. The entire transit system is optimized for bike traffic: there are dedicated bike paths that run next to major roads, and if not, there are separately marked bike lanes on the streets. For the most part, bikes and cars share the road, although in my opinion, I think you'd be crazy to drive in Amsterdam given the volume of bike traffic. In fact, along some of the major intersections, because of the volume of bikes going with traffic, cars that are making a left or right turn often have to wait several cycles of the stoplight before being able to turn, due to all the bikes crossing. It's almost like the cars need a protected left/right arrow from the bikes!

Dutch bikes are built very differently from the styles normally seen in the US, and they're quite practical in design for weather and utility. For the wet/rainy weather, there's always a splash guard behind the front and back wheels, and there's also a covered chain so that you can bike into work in your suit without worrying about your pants getting stained by oil. For the brakes, instead of a disc brake along the wheelrim, there's an integrated brake hub that's connected to the axle. I assume this is to provide better braking performance when the wheels are wet, since the braking mechanism is sealed instead of exposed.

For utility, these bikes are designed for comfort and convenience. You'll first notice that the handlebars are curved, allowing the rider to sit straight upright, without "hunching". It increases drag, so definitely not good for sport racing, but it is comfortable for long bike rides of 20-30 minutes. Almost all bikes will have rear rack for carrying groceries, beer crates, or sometimes even crazier things like desks, computer monitors, even chest of drawers! With HS's help, we actually attached my heavy rollerbag onto my bike once, and successfully brought it from the train station to my house. Imagine, about 25 pounds of luggage strapped onto one side of my bike, and it was still balanceable!


For young mothers, there's also the baksfiets, which looks like something you'd expect on a farm, like a cross between a bike and a wheelbarrow. It's a bike with a huge "scoop" in the front (the bakje, or small container), where you can put the kids into the front. And in case of rain, there's a cover than can pull over their heads. If you're a young family living in the city, instead of a minivan, you get a bakfiets.


Besides the bikes, the nice spring weather makes for great walking-around weather. One of my favorite places to bike through is the huge Vondelpark, something like Central Park for Amsterdam. It's a huge open green space, surrounded by huge trees and amazing tall houses which are probably some of the most expensive addresses in Amsterdam. THe park is filled with huge paths for walking, biking, running, roller-blading. As the days get longer and the summer weather begins, the park gets filled with people enjoying a barbeque, playing cards, pick-up game of soccer, etc. I always enjoyed biking through the Vondelpark instead of taking the parallel streets when going between my old apartment and the center.. not only do you avoid traffic, but it's a great place to people watch, either from the park, or from the few cafes with terraces overlooking the park. Whether just enjoying a coffee and reading my Economist, or meeting up with friends for a drink, the Vondelpark is a great place just to relax and enjoy the outdoors.



The other advantage of the beginning of spring in Amsterdam is the long/late evenings.. this means that the sunsets start around 8pm and start to go later, and the city becomes very beautiful right around sunset, with the combination of the interior lights coming on just as dusk begins. Amsterdam houses (and maybe Europe in general) frequently have extremely large windows. I was never quite sure of the reason why, maybe because it allows as much light in as possible during the winter months where there's only 6-7 hours of sunlight? Or because the Dutch enjoy their openness, allowing everything inside to be seen from the outside? Or because the old canal houses have very narrow staircases, and thus having large windows are necessary to bring furniture in through the windows instead of the staircases? Either way, it makes for an amazing scene - seeing the warm glow from an interior room with ~15-20 foot ceilings just as sunset begins.


But of the best things about the spring and summer is the chance to enjoy a nice refreshing snack. In the Jordaan and throughout the city, there's a local chain of shops called "Yscupje", or "little ice cup", which sells excellent self-made ice creams and sorbets.
 The location in the Jordaan is particularly nice, as you can enjoy a cup of ice cream while sitting on the side of the canal surrounded by the canal houses, and watch the boats (and tourists) go by....

And for those looking for something less sweet, there's plenty of places to enjoy a drink - either going through the Heineken experience (not that I've ever done it, because it's too touristy), or finding a nice bier cafe (like Gollem on Overtoom), where you can enjoy a drink with a view of the street. And nothing better than meeting with friends and enjoying a drink from a local Amsterdam brewery "Brouwerij 't IJ". When are they going to start importing to the US?!